If you’ve ever opened the controller settings in a fighting game, you know there’s a dizzying array of button configuration options. Do top players stick with default layouts, or do they use custom bindings? We surveyed interviews, forum discussions, and player streams to see how pro fighting game players set their buttons.
The short answer: while many pros use default layouts, there’s no single “perfect” button layout. Top Street Fighter and Tekken players often make small tweaks – like binding multi-button macros to make certain actions easier – but preferences vary widely. In this article, we’ll share common layouts pros use, highlight trends (with a focus on Street Fighter 6 and Tekken 7/8), and explain why the best layout is ultimately the one that feels right to you.
Street Fighter Pros’ Button Layouts (Classic 6-Button)
Most Street Fighter pros play on the classic 6-button layout (whether on an arcade stick or a controller). The traditional setup — Light, Medium, Heavy punches on the top row and Light, Medium, Heavy kicks on the bottom row — remains the standard for the majority of players.
In fact, many prominent players simply use the default configuration provided by the game. As one guide notes, “Street Fighter 6’s default bindings are comfortable and intuitive… If the defaults work for you, keep them”. Pros like NuckleDu and Phenom in past SF titles, for example, have stated they stick with default buttons to avoid confusion. Simplicity and muscle memory are key.
That said, some pros do take advantage of the two extra buttons (on an arcade stick or controller triggers) for added utility. Common tweaks include:
- Dedicated Drive Impact button: A popular SF6 adjustment is binding the heavy punch + heavy kick combination (Drive Impact in SF6) to a single spare button. This became common after players realized reacting to an opponent’s Drive Impact is easier with one press than two. Many high-level players map a trigger or far-right button to Drive Impact for faster reaction defense. As one forum user reasoned, “It’s a reactive button that for most stick users means moving your wrist off position [if you don’t bind it]…”. By using a one-button DI, pros can slam out a counter without flubbing the two-button input in the heat of battle.
- One-button Throw or Parry: A smaller subset of players bind Throw (LP+LK) or Drive Parry (MP+MK) to a single button. This isn’t as universally adopted as the DI bind, but it has its fans. For example, legendary player Daigo Umehara custom-built a Hit Box layout that put the Drive Parry (two mediums) on an extra thumb button near his movement keys – allowing him to hit parry and quickly transition into Drive Rush with ease (a technique in SF6). A one-button throw can help on pad, where pressing two face buttons together is awkward; some pad players map a shoulder button to throw for consistency. These choices come down to individual comfort – most pros still perform throws and parries with the default two-button presses, but the option to simplify them is there.
- Unused buttons: Interestingly, a few pros prefer disabling or ignoring the extra buttons entirely. They’ll run a “six-button only” setup to avoid accidentally hitting a 3P or 3K macro. For instance, some Japanese arcade stick users remove the far right two buttons on their sticks, mimicking the old 6-button cabinets. Their philosophy is that if you don’t need a macro, fewer buttons means fewer mistakes. This again is personal preference – other players love having those macros as safety nets.
To visualize the common approaches, here’s a summary of Street Fighter 6 (Classic) layouts among pros:
| Layout Style | Description & Usage |
|---|---|
| Default 6-Button | Light/Medium/Heavy Punch on 💠 Square/Triangle/R1, Light/Medium/Heavy Kick on 🔶 Cross/Circle/R2 (on a PlayStation pad, for example). Arcade stick equivalent: classic 2×3 face buttons. Majority of pros use this standard layout for familiarity. No extra binds or macros beyond the built-in 3P/3K (which they may not press). |
| + Drive Impact Bind | Same as default, plus one extra button bound to Heavy Punch+Kick (Drive Impact). On a stick this is often one of the far-right buttons; on pad it might be L1 or R1. Common among SF6 pros for easier reactive Drive Impact. Doesn’t change any other standard inputs. |
| + Parry/Throw Bind | Default layout plus a bind for Parry (MP+MK) or Throw (LP+LK) on an extra button. Only a minority use this. Tends to be used by players with specific strategies (e.g. dedicated parry users like Daigo, or pad players who want a throw button). |
| Minimalist 6-Button | No macros used at all. Extra buttons are unbound or ignored. Some arcade stick players prefer this to avoid accidental inputs. It’s essentially the default layout, just consciously not using the 3P/3K buttons. |
(Note: “3P” = all three punches, “3K” = all three kicks. SF6 doesn’t require 3P/3K for any unique action – those were more relevant in older games for certain moves – so those two are often repurposed for DI/Parry or left empty.)
The big takeaway for Street Fighter is that most pros stick close to the default. As one article put it, “Button inputs don’t get more complicated than plinking two at a time in Street Fighter, so unless you have specific problems, I would be reluctant to [change much].” In other words, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. But smart optimizations like a one-button Drive Impact can provide a small edge, so many will make that single adjustment. Ultimately, each player finds what’s comfortable: there is no single layout that all pros use – even teammates can have different preferences.
Tekken Pros’ Button Layouts (4-Button + Macros)
Tekken (which uses a 4-button scheme: Left Punch [1], Right Punch [2], Left Kick [3], Right Kick [4]) offers a slightly different story because button combination moves are part of the game’s design. On both arcade sticks and pads, it’s extremely common for Tekken players to take advantage of extra buttons by assigning them to certain two-button combinations. In fact, in modern Tekken almost all top players bind at least a couple of macros, since it’s legal and helps with execution.
Here are typical practices observed among Tekken 7 and Tekken 8 pros:
- 1+2 (both punches) and 3+4 (both kicks) Macros: These are by far the most common bindings. Many critical moves in Tekken (such as certain throws, Rage Arts, or tag assaults in TTT2) require pressing 1+2 or 3+4 together. Rather than hitting two buttons at once in a tense moment, players bind R1 = 1+2 and R2 = 3+4 (on a PlayStation pad or equivalent on stick buttons). Our survey confirmed that nearly every Tekken pro uses at least the 1+2 macro, and a strong majority use the 3+4 macro as well. This makes moves like Nina’s “Blonde Bomb” (1+2) or Ling’s backflip (3+4) easier to execute consistently under pressure. There’s essentially no downside, since macros are tournament-legal and don’t do anything you couldn’t do with two fingers – they just ensure perfect simultaneous timing.
- Throw break macros (1+3, 2+4): Some players also bind the common throw inputs (1+3 and 2+4). For example, one Tekken player shared that on their pad they set L1 = 1+4 and L2 = 2+3 – which correspond to certain throw inputs (Square+Circle and Triangle+Cross on PS pad). However, these specific binds aren’t as universal; many players instead learn to press the two buttons for throws manually with their thumb. The consensus is that binding throw breaks can help, but it’s optional and up to personal comfort (especially since reacting to specific throws often requires recognizing which arms the opponent used, a whole separate skill!).
- Rage Art/Super button: Tekken 7 introduced Rage Arts, powerful super moves often done with a single button press by default (e.g. R1 on pad by default triggers your character’s Rage Art). Many players keep that — it’s essentially a macro for 1+2+3+4 (all buttons) or a unique command. In our findings, some pros do use the one-button Rage Art, while others prefer to input the two buttons manually to avoid accidentally blowing their Rage Art. It’s about 50/50. Notably, at high level play, Rage Arts are usually used in combos or specific situations, so accidental presses are rare; having it on a shoulder button (or one of the extra stick buttons) is generally seen as fine and even recommended for newcomers. For example, a commenter noted “I bind a Rage Art button since my stick has extra buttons, why not use it?”.
- Other uncommon binds: A few Tekken players get creative – binding things like “Tag” in tag games, or specific 2-button combos like 2+3 or 1+4 if their character uses those frequently. For instance, a player might bind L1 = 1+4 if they play King (who has a grab requiring LP+RK). But these are tailored to individual needs and aren’t universal.
On a typical arcade stick layout (8-button), a common configuration for Tekken would be:
lessCopyEdit[1] [2] [1+2] [Rage] (Top row: LP, RP, macro, macro)
[3] [4] [3+4] [ unused ] (Bottom row: LK, RK, macro, optional)
Where, for example, [1+2] might be bound to the third button on top row, [3+4] on the third bottom, and maybe Rage Art on the fourth top. This aligns with what many players shared: “R2 for 1+2, R1 for 3+4…” as one GameFAQs tip says, and “I use L3 or R3 for Rage Art” in some cases. On pad, it’s usually R1=1+2, R2=3+4 by default, which lots of players stick with or tweak slightly.
Why do Tekken pros embrace macros so much? Mainly because Tekken’s execution can be extremely demanding, and unlike 2D fighters, there’s no inherent disadvantage or scoring penalty to using a macro (they are built into the game’s settings). When a tournament match and $50,000 is on the line, a player will happily take any input consistency boost that’s within the rules. As one redditor succinctly put it, “My stick has extra buttons, why not use it?”. Pros want their focus on mindgames and reactions, not worrying “did I press the buttons on the exact same frame?” for a move. Macros remove that worry.
That said, a few elite players still use raw inputs only. For example, Pakistani Tekken prodigy Arslan Ash famously plays on pad and is known for his impeccable execution; it’s been reported that he uses the default layout (which includes R1/R2 macros for 1+2/3+4 anyway) and relies on timing for complex multi-button inputs. Some old-school arcade veterans also manually press the two buttons together out of habit. But these are the exceptions now. The general pattern: if a macro helps, pros will use it.
“No Perfect Layout” – Personal Preferences Rule
Our survey of pro layouts reinforces a key point: there is no single universally “best” button layout. Even among world champions, you’ll find differing setups:
- In Street Fighter, Daigo Umehara added new buttons to his hitbox for SF6, while Tokido sticks to a more standard Hit Box layout; Punk plays on a DualShock 4 pad using mostly default binds, whereas MenaRD uses a DualSense Edge pad and might take advantage of its extra back paddles for certain inputs. Each has reasons – Daigo’s layout suits his Guile playstyle (easy access to parry), Punk’s comfort with pad lets him execute quickly, etc.
- In Tekken, Knee plays on a custom arcade stick (likely with 1+2/3+4 macros), while JDCR for a long time used no macros on stick (old habits from arcade). Arslan Ash uses a PS4 pad with at least the default macros, whereas Nobi (another top Japanese player) switched to a Hit Box recently, altering his layout entirely. Despite these differences, all of them are EVO champions.
The common theme is that each pro has optimized their layout for their own hands and their game’s demands. Button layout is incredibly personal. One pro joked that he tried a fellow player’s controller and couldn’t even do a fireball because the binds felt so alien. It’s like borrowing someone’s car – the seat and mirror positions won’t be right for you.
Tips for Players Crafting Their Layout
- Start with the default. It’s default for a reason – it works for most people. Get a feel for what (if anything) feels hard for you on the default layout.
- Add macros that address your weaknesses. Do you struggle hitting two buttons at once on reaction (e.g. for V-Shift, Rage Art, Burst, etc.)? Consider binding it to one button. Do you never use a certain button? Feel free to reassign it to something useful. Pro players often add one or two binds that save them from input errors – you can do the same.
- Keep muscle memory in mind. Consistency is more important than having a flashy setup. A layout that you consistently practice with and ingrain will serve you better than constantly tweaking. Notice that many pros say they’ve used “the same layout since Street Fighter IV” or “since Tekken 6,” etc. Once you find a good fit, stick with it so your brain and hands build the necessary memory.
- Test like a pro: Use training mode to experiment. Try executing your common combos and moves with a new bind and see if it actually helps. For instance, if you bind a one-button Drive Impact, go into training and see if you can punish the dummy’s DI more reliably. If yes, great. If not, maybe you don’t need it. In our research, one author mentioned “I’ve experimented with a dedicated button for Drive Impact and Drive Parry, but go with your gut on this one… unless you have specific problems, you might not need to change much.”
- Ergonomics matter: especially for custom controllers. If you have a fight stick or hitbox, you can move button functions around. Some players shift the layout a bit for comfort (e.g. mapping a frequently used button closer to their index finger). Make sure you can comfortably hit all the important actions quickly on your setup. If reaching a certain button is awkward or causes hand strain, consider relocating that function.
Finally, remember that personal comfort trumps all. As one veteran player said when asked about his button setup: “It’s 100% personal preference. If the defaults work for you, keep them… Controls are a personal thing.”. The best evidence is that champions prosper on wildly different configs. So use pro layouts as inspiration, but don’t feel obligated to copy any single one. There’s no secret button layout that will make you a god – you make the layout godlike. Experiment, practice, and you’ll find the configuration that lets you focus on winning instead of fumbling with buttons.
For a deeper dive into joystick buttons, check our guide to arcade buttons, and for more about the best joysticks, read our guide to fight sticks.
Sources
- Best controls settings and button mapping for Street Fighter 6, primagames.com
- Drive Impact Is The Single Most Valuable Button Bind In SF6, dashfight.com
- Cory Bell on X, “Daigo’s hitbox”, x.com
- Button Layout, r/Tekken7, reddit.com
- arslan ash button check, r/Tekken, reddit.com