arcade buttons of different sizes

30mm vs 24mm Buttons: Sizes, Templates & When to Use Each

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Himura
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Arcade pushbuttons mainly come in two standard diameters – 30 millimeter and 24 millimeter. Knowing when to use each size is crucial for building or modding arcade sticks and cabinets. In this guide, we’ll compare 30mm vs 24mm buttons, provide printable size templates, and share tips on choosing the right size for your project. We’ll also cover common mistakes (like ordering the wrong size!) and how to ensure a perfect fit every time.

Understanding 30mm vs 24mm Buttons

30mm buttons are the standard “action” buttons on most fightsticks and arcade panels. These larger buttons are used for primary gameplay inputs (punch, kick, etc.). In contrast, 24mm buttons are smaller and typically serve as auxiliary buttons – often for Start, Select, Home/Guide, or in specialty cases like all-button controllers. For example, a typical fightstick might have eight 30mm buttons on the face for gameplay, and 24mm buttons on the side or top for Start/Options.

Why the two sizes? The main reason is ergonomics and spacing. The larger 30mm buttons give a broad surface for mashing during intense play, while the 24mm are compact to fit into tighter spots or secondary positions. On devices like the Hitbox (an all-button “stickless” controller), 24mm buttons are even used for the main gameplay inputs.

Hitbox’s designers chose 24mm for the action buttons so the player’s fingers don’t have to spread out as much, potentially allowing faster combos. It’s a trade-off – smaller buttons mean you can cluster them closer together, though many players find the difference in feel between 24mm and 30mm to be minor in practice.

In most commercial fightsticks from brands like Mad Catz, Hori, and Qanba, the convention is 30mm for gameplay and 24mm for system buttons. There are a few exceptions: for instance, the classic Neo Geo AES console stick used 24mm for all its buttons. But generally, if you see a big hole on a fightstick panel, it’s for a 30mm button.

Printable Templates for Drilling & Layout

If you’re building a custom control panel, accuracy in drilling the button holes is key. We’ve provided printable 1:1 templates (in PDF format) for both 30mm and 24mm buttons. You can print these templates at 100% scale and use them as a guide to mark your panel. Each template includes the precise circle outlines for 30mm and 24mm holes, as well as recommended spacing:

  • 30mm buttons: Require a hole roughly 30mm in diameter (1.18 inches). Common layouts space 30mm buttons about 35–36mm apart center-to-center, to ensure enough room for the button rims and player’s fingers.
  • 24mm buttons: Need a 24mm (~0.94 inch) hole. These smaller buttons can be placed closer together; a minimum spacing of around 29–30mm center-to-center works for 24mm buttons. This is why layouts like the Hitbox can pack 24mm buttons tightly for directional inputs without feeling cramped.

Each template also indicates the panel cutout type (for snap-in tabs, see below) and helps avoid “drift” when drilling multiple holes. Tool tip: Use a forstner bit or hole saw of the correct size for clean holes. For 30mm, a 1-3/16″ hole saw (30.16mm) can work, and for 24mm you may use a 15/16″ bit (23.8mm) and lightly sand out to fit. Always drill a test hole in scrap material first.

Mistake to avoid: Don’t confuse the button’s plunger size with the required hole size. The plunger (the part you press) on a 30mm button is actually about ~25mm across, which misleads some people into ordering 24mm by mistake. Similarly, measuring the outer rim is not useful since the rim is larger than the hole. Always go by the mounting hole diameter (housing size) – 30mm or 24mm – not the cap size. A digital caliper is a handy tool to verify hole diameters if you’re unsure.

When to Use 30mm vs 24mm

Use 30mm buttons for: primary gameplay inputs on almost all arcade fightsticks, arcade cabinet control panels, and situations where standard size is expected. They offer a large target for your fingers and are the size most competitive players are accustomed to. If you’re building a Street Fighter or Tekken stick layout, you’ll almost certainly want 30mm for the main buttons.

Use 24mm buttons for: secondary functions (Start, Select, Home, Turbo, etc.), especially if these buttons are mounted on the side of a stick or a smaller control box. Also choose 24mm for space-constrained layouts or unique controller designs. As noted, the Hitbox controller famously uses 24mm for all its buttons to reduce finger travel. Some players with smaller hands or those who want ultra-compact spacing might experiment with 24mm for main action buttons on a custom build – and yes, they will work for gameplay if you prefer them. Just be aware it’s not the common tournament standard.

Mixing sizes: It’s perfectly fine to mix 30mm and 24mm on the same project. In fact, nearly all commercial sticks do: e.g. eight 30mm on top, two 24mm on the side. Just remember that 24mm buttons will fall straight through a 30mm hole. If you accidentally cut or have a panel with 30mm holes but want to use 24mm buttons, you’ll need adapter washers or a bezel to mount them securely (some DIYers 3D-print these adapters). Conversely, fitting a 30mm button in a 24mm hole requires enlarging the hole – typically with a drill or dremel – as there’s no simple adapter to go larger.

Finally, consider American vs Japanese style: Traditional American arcade cabinets (using Happ/iL concave buttons) use a slightly different “standard” size (~28mm hole with a threaded button). But those parts aren’t usually mixed with Sanwa/Seimitsu parts. If you’re building a retro cabinet with Happ-style buttons, stick to the matching hole size (usually 1-1/8″ or 28.5mm). For everything else in modern arcade controllers, 30mm and 24mm cover 99% of use cases.

Installation Tips and Avoiding Pitfalls

Check panel thickness: Snap-in buttons (common for 30mm Japanese buttons) have two little tabs that only work on thin panels – typically 2 to 4 mm thick. If your panel is thicker than ~3mm (for example, a wooden DIY panel), standard snap-ins won’t latch properly. In that case, you either need to use screw-in buttons or modify the panel (e.g. route the underside to thin it out at the button areas). A snap-in Sanwa button can safely fit in material up to about 1/8″ (3.175mm) thick; anything beyond that, plan on screw-mount or different button styles.

Use the right drill/cutter: When drilling acrylic or metal for 30mm holes, go slow to avoid cracking or warping the material. For wood panels, a sharp forstner bit gives a clean, precise hole. Always wear eye protection and clamp the workpiece. Use our printable templates to mark the exact centers – a center punch helps keep the drill bit from wandering.

Secure the template: If you print out a button layout template (ours or from a site like Slagcoin), tape it firmly to your panel. Double-check measurements with a ruler or calipers – printing can sometimes introduce slight scaling errors if not set to 100%. Our templates are provided as PDFs to ensure correct scale.

Common mistakes to avoid:

  • Ordering wrong sizes: As mentioned, many beginners mistakenly buy 24mm buttons for their main action keys because they measured the plunger. Double-check your stick’s specs or ask the community if unsure – most fightsticks use 30mm for the main buttons.
  • Wrong hole for the job: Don’t try to force a 30mm button into a smaller cutout or vice versa. If you have a metal panel with pre-cut holes (say from an old stick), you must use the matching size button. For instance, Neo Geo AES stick owners must know those holes are 24mm, so they need 24mm buttons.
  • Not accounting for spacing: If you drill holes too close together for 30mm buttons, the button rims will collide or the buttons may not mount straight. Follow established layouts or at least keep ~8–10mm of space between hole edges for 30mm buttons. Our template follows the popular Vewlix layout spacing for reliability.
  • Measuring the wrong part: Again, measure the hole or the button’s mounting barrel diameter – not the cap. All Japanese 30mm buttons have a housing just under 30mm wide that snaps into a 30mm hole, regardless of plunger shape. The plunger might be 24–26mm across, but that’s not the spec you use for sizing.

With the right size buttons in hand and accurately drilled holes, your build will go much smoother. In the next sections, we’ll look at mounting methods (snap-in vs screw-in) and other nuances, but you should now have a solid grasp on which button size to use for each purpose.

FAQ

Q: Can I use 24mm buttons for all the main action buttons on a fightstick?
A: Yes, technically you can – they will function just like 30mm buttons electrically. Some players even prefer 24mm for all-button controllers or unique layouts. However, standard arcade stick layouts are designed around 30mm buttons, so you may find the spacing too far apart if you drop 24mm buttons into a panel intended for 30mm (there will be extra gap between them). If you design a layout specifically for 24mm (with closer spacing), it can work. Keep in mind 24mm buttons feel a bit different (smaller surface area for your finger). Most users stick with 30mm for main buttons unless there’s a specific reason not to.

Q: The holes in my panel are slightly too large and the 30mm button is loose. What can I do?
A: This sometimes happens if a panel was designed for screw-in buttons with a slightly bigger threaded barrel, or if a hole was over-drilled. One solution is to use a thin button shim or spacer. You can wrap a single layer of tape around the button’s housing to widen it just a hair – not too much or it won’t fit at all. There are also bezel washers (or 3D-printed rings) that can adapt a hole diameter. But if the oversize is small, tape or a dab of hot glue can secure the button. Ideally, use the correct drill size next time or switch to a screw-in button which might have a larger flange.

Q: I only have a 1-inch drill bit for a 24mm hole – that’s ~25.4mm, slightly bigger. Is that okay?
A: A 1″ hole is about 1.4mm larger than 24mm. In many cases, a 24mm button will still mount in a 1″ hole because the button’s rim will cover it, but the fit might be a bit loose. If using screw-ins, the nut should clamp it fine. If using snap-ins, you might need to pad it (since the tabs won’t have a perfect edge to catch). If possible, test with scrap. Ideally get a 15/16″ bit or a step bit that includes 24mm. If you must use 1″, consider a drop of silicone or hot glue on the sides to prevent rotation.

Q: Are there other sizes of arcade buttons beyond 30mm and 24mm?
A: Yes, though they are less common. Some American style arcade buttons (like illuminated start buttons or older cabs) can be 1.5″ (around 38mm) or larger. Sanwa also makes a 40mm button (OBSF-40) used sometimes for start buttons on candy cabinets. And as noted, Happ-style are ~28-29mm. But for Japanese fightsticks and most modern arcade builds, 30 and 24 are the standards. Anything else is usually a specialty part.

Q: I printed the template and the 30mm circle doesn’t measure exactly 30mm, what happened?
A: Make sure when printing that scaling is set to 100% (actual size). Some PDF viewers default to “fit to page” which can shrink or stretch the print. Use a ruler on the printed guide – we’ve included a scale reference on the sheet. If it’s off, adjust print settings and try again. It’s important that the template is true to size, otherwise your holes won’t line up correctly.

Q: Can I convert a 30mm hole down to 24mm without making a new panel?
A: There’s no off-the-shelf reducer bushing specifically for this, but some creative solutions exist. You could 3D print a ring that snaps into a 30mm hole and has an inner 24mm cutout. Some people have used automotive panel reducer grommets or even large washers. If it’s just one hole (say you have a spare 30mm hole you want to fill with a smaller button), another hack is to install a 30mm button plug (available from Sanwa/Seimitsu) and then drill a 24mm hole into that plug – essentially using the plug as a new “panel” for the smaller button. But at that point, it might be easier to just use a 30mm button in that spot or cover it.

To go deeper into arcade buttons, read our buttons buyer’s guide.

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